LANHAM – There is a new culinary presence in Lanham: Huddle House at 10509 Greenbelt Road in Lanham, which opened its doors on April 4.
At the site of a former Pizza Hut, it is a simple, square dining room which seeks to give a close, intimate feeling. Although it is part of a chain of hundreds of restaurants across the country, the restaurant has an intimate feel. The absence of music on loudspeakers makes for close conversation and the familiar clank of dishes and dinnerware.
For my first visit to Huddle House, I ordered a rib-eye steak, shrimp and grilled chicken. The best was likely the shrimp (though deep-fried) but it was not greasy. The grilled chicken was a little bland, and the steak was well-cooked and flavored, though somewhat fatty. The side vegetables (salad, string beans and so forth) were unexceptional. My feeling is that breakfast is likely the best meal. Reading from the attractively produced menu, choices are two-egg breakfast platters, southern biscuit platters, golden waffles and sweet cakes (i.e., pancakes). Burgers of various sorts then round out the menu. Customers can order these breakfast, lunch and dinner items at various points in the day. In this way, it is much like a 24/7 restaurant, but it closes at midnight.
The restaurant has a cozy atmosphere and good food to recommend it, provided one is careful with the choices. One issue with the restaurant, however, is undoubtedly the speed of service. In fact, I left after an hour, but another patron who had arrived later but not much later than I) waited quite some time for his meal. He finally ordered his chicken club to go, and as I left, he was still waiting. His order? A simple chicken club sandwich.
The problem regarding the speed of service we would like to ascribe to the newness of the restaurant, and I am certain it is a problem that can be ironed out in the coming weeks. Meanwhile, I wish the owner, managers, and staff of Huddle House well. My final recommendation: a sign close to the road, as the establishment is not easily visible.